Panama: Experiencing Its History & Culture

An exciting adventure through Panama Viejo, Casco Viejo, and Taboga Island with a focus on the history and culture of the region   . . . 

​Panama is a great option for those looking to enjoy a bit of summer fun in the winter months. It is Central America's close proximity to the equator that creates a fairly consistent summertime climate. A couple of years prior, I had visited Costa Rica during the winter, but never made it over the border to the neighboring country of Panama. The time had finally arrived.

Exploring the Sights and Traditions of Central America in Warm Winter Weather

​January is a time that I often look to escape the bitter winters of my home in the mountains, and temporarily immerse myself into a warmer environment. All throughout Panama there are numerous activities for thrill seeking adventure lovers. If you are an anthropology geek like me, you will most certainly be drawn to the amazing cultural and historical aspects this area has to offer. 

I walked out of the airport and climbed aboard one of Panama's infamous Diablos Rojos (Red Devil) busses​. That is a whole other story that you can read about in my epic tales. These busses truly are epic, and you have to try one at least once. 

Normally I am the adventurous backpacker type that can be found in the world of hostels and campgrounds, but this time I wanted to treat myself. After a bit of research, I chose the Double Tree by Hilton near el Carmen subway station. This is a very nice hotel complete with a rooftop pool and gym (only about $50 a night!), and perfect for that warm winter getaway. 

​Directly across the street from the hotel is La Iglesia de Carmen. Built in the 1940's this neo-gothic cathedral receives the most tourism of any church in all of Panama. 

The surrounding area is also home to many great restaurants and shops. And as a big bonus, The nearby subway station provides a direct link to some of the other neighborhoods and the Albrook Mall for your shopping convenience. 

La Iglesia de Carmen

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First Things First … Food!

I was absolutely starving after check in, so I hit the town looking for my first Panamanian meal. I strolled the neighborhood looking for the perfect place to eat, not realizing that it was January 9th - Martyrs' Day. This is the day that locals pay their respects to the students that were killed during the flag protests of 1964. Many bars were closed, but the restaurant El Trapiche was open and very busy. Here I had an amazing sampling of Panamanian cuisine, but no alcohol is served on this solemn holiday. 

Sample of local food at El Trapiche

Breakfast Buffet at Doubletree

I must also mention that the Double Tree offers an amazing breakfast buffet (around $15). The morning feast included eggs, beans and rice, fruit, toast, pastries, and much more. The price may seem a bit steep for Central America, but it is sure to provide plenty of fuel for the adventures to come. ​

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​Off to See the Ruins:
​In Search of Panama Viejo

For an archaeology enthusiast such as myself, this trip would not have been complete without a visit to Panama Viejo (Old Panama). To get there, I caught a bus on the Pan-American Hwy down near Democracy Plaza. There are many running to all sorts of locations, so be sure you get on the right one. A more direct method would be to take a taxi. Although more expensive than a bus ride, taxis in Panama City seem to be very cheap compared to other places. 

Brief History: Founded in the early 1500s, this was the first permanent European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas. By the 1600s the population had grown to nearly 10,000 people. Sadly, in late January of 1671 it was ransacked and burned to the ground by Captain Henry Morgan and his gang of rum soaked pirates.

Ruins of Panama Viejo

When you arrive at the gate (and pay the admission fee of $15) you will have the option of a trolley ride through the ruins, or you can just explore on foot at your own pace as I chose. The vast grounds of this colonial site are impressive. You could spend half a day just wandering around this historic landscape. I eventually made my way to the cathedral tower. The climb to the top reveals a nice view of the area and city skyline. 

Roaming the remains of this settlement was one of the many highlights of my trip. When I got back home, I couldn't resist piecing together a short video with footage shot from my phone. It really doesn't do it justice, so eventually I will have to return more prepared and with better equipment. 

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Casco Viejo, The New Old Town

To get to Casco Viejo (Old Town), you will need to get off the subway at the Cinco de Mayo station. From there you will work your way south through an interesting series of markets, shops, and vendors via Avenida Central. Keep walking and you will eventually end up at the Town Square of Casco Antiguo, which is home to many historic churches including La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús and the Panama Metropolitan Cathedral.

Churches of Casco Viejo

This is the part of town that was constructed after the original settlement had been destroyed. Here you will find a mixture of old and new, with even more revitalization underway. There is an amazing amount of photo opportunities all packed into a relatively small location, so don't forget your camera. 

The Streets of Casco

Along these fascinating streets you will find many bars, restaurants, and souvenir shops. There is also the occasional local historian that will gladly tell you a story in exchange for a tip. It was one of those helpful locals that explained to me the origin of the large sundial of Plaza de Francia, as well as the meaning of the surrounding artwork and how Panama got its name. 

While adventuring through the history of the old town, you may want to stop for a cocktail at Diablicos or try a craft beer at La Rana Dorada. If you are looking for a lunchtime snack I recommend the Super G Deli. There are also many rooftop bars that offer amazing views of the Panama City skyline. Casco Viejo seems to be especially lively at night, but be warned the subway closes at 10 pm. You will most likely want to get a cab if you are staying elsewhere. ​

There is much to be seen down in Casco Viejo. Looking back on it, I should have gotten a room in this area for a portion of my stay. This video explains a bit about Casco's historic background and current projects, as I eat and drink my way through this action packed neighborhood. 

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The Panama Canal

What trip to Panama would be complete without a visit to the canal for which it is famous? The Panama Canal is actually way more interesting than it sounds. It consists of a series of locks on each coast, with the enormous Gatun lake between This lake also provides the fresh water from which the canal functions. The lake being higher than sea level means that the boats will be ascending as they pass through each section. 

On the observation deck, you will not only see the ships passing by, but also witness firsthand how this amazing feat of engineering functions. While here, you will also want to visit the onsite museum which displays a very extensive history of the project. The visitor also center has a restaurant, snack bar, and souvenir shop. And if you need to sit down and relax for a bit, the 3D Imax theater has scheduled showings that detail the history of the entire project.

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Visit With a Remote Tribe

One of my main reasons for being in Panama was to visit with one of the indigenous tribes of that region. There are two main ethnic groups that you will hear about in these parts, the Guna Yala people and the Embera. While you will see many ladies of the Guna Yala in traditional attire all across Panama, most Embera remain secluded in small villages far away from the big city. Visitors are transported by canoe, as there are no roads in this part of the jungle.

​Over the course of my Anthropology degree, I had taken many classes involving ethnographic fieldwork, and population studies. It was now time to try out some of those skills at the village of Parara Puru.
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If you would like to know about this amazing experience you can read my epic tale A Day With the Embera.

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Escape to Taboga Island

On my final day in Panama, I wanted to spend a relaxing day at the beach. Most would be surprised to learn that there are not any beaches in Panama City suitable for swimming. For activities like this, you must escape the big city life and head toward a more laid back environment. Just a short boat ride from the mainland and you will arrive at such a location. To get to the docks, you will want to make your way down to the end of the Amador Causeway to Flamenco Island. There are busses that routinely make this loop from the Albrook Mall, or you could just grab a taxi if pressed for time.

​A day at Taboga Island is a great way to wind down after a long week of adventuring. Here you can find activities such as fishing and scuba diving, or just relax by the ocean while sipping rum out of a pineapple. There are also multiple pathways that allow for exploration all over the island. Just don't stray too far and miss your boat. The last ferry back to the mainland leaves around 4:30.

There are a few lodging options available for those who wish to spend more time on Taboga Island. Keep in mind, it is pretty small, so you wouldn't want to spend too much time here … unless relaxation and solitude is your goal. 

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Unfortunately, my time in Panama had come to a close way too soon. It had been an amazing winter break full of warm weather and sunshine. During my visit I had explored colonial ruins, enjoyed local foods, and created memories that would last a lifetime.

If my stay had been longer, there are many other side trips I would have taken.
You may also be interested in:

• A train ride to Colón
• San Blas Archipelago
• The Pearl Islands 
• Tour of Monkey Island
• Exploring Nature in Anton Valley

Panama is absolutely full of history, culture, and natural beauty. With so much to enjoy in this amazing country, I will surely return.

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