The Old Town of San Juan

A traveler's guide to adventuring through the action-packed streets of Puerto Rico's heavily fortified capital city   . . . 

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To fully experience the historical beginnings of San Juan, I wanted to focus primarily on The Old Town by spending a few days roaming the streets and exploring the forts. To achieve this, I based myself in one of the most central locations I could find - S.J. Hotel. Its convenient location placed it within walking distance of the entire area.
And walk it, I did. Here is what I found. 

A Look at the History and Culture of The Old Town

​After the founding of San Juan in 1521, imposing stone walls and multiple fortresses soon began to surround the entire town offering protection from any who would seek to loot, plunder, or lay claim this island enclave. Puerto Rico was considered a strategic location by many, as it was the first island with a sustainable amount of fresh water on the long voyage from Europe. It would take a great deal of firepower for the Spaniards to fend off opposing forces that may approach from the horizon, and to this day you can see the structures where cannons once lined the coast.

Fortaleza Above the City Walls

Over forty feet tall and just as thick, these sandstone walls were built in the 1600s. Throughout the years some sections have been removed to make room for urban development but over two and a half miles still encase the old city. On this section you can see a large building that was once the port fortress, La Fortaleza. It now serves as the governor's mansion. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

On the town's north-western point stands one of the most important protective structures on the island. Construction began on Castillo San Felipe del Morro in 1533 and continued for two centuries as it expanded to immense proportions with multiple levels providing tiers of cannons. It was this mighty fortress that fended off attacks form the English in 1595 and the Dutch in 1625. 

As you cross the bridge over the dry moat, you will pass into a large open area where the decision will now be which way to begin exploring. Luckily, at this point you will have the option of an audio tour that may help to guide you along the way. 

Castillo San ​Cristóbal

Castillo de San Cristóbal

In the year 1634 Castillo San Cristobal began to take things to a new level with an even bigger fortress to meet the ever-growing threats of invasion. This behemoth spans nearly twenty-seven acres along the islands northern coast and the main construction phase lasted over 150 years with its completion around 1790.

Wandering the grounds of this fearsome fortress will treat the visitor to numerous educational experiences as you learn of everything from the cisterns that once stored water for drinking to the weaponry that armed the troops during numerous battles. As you can see in the photos, both of these fortresses received an additional upgrade during World War 2 with the addition of more modern sea bunkers.

Important Tip:
 A National Parks Pass will cover your admission to both of these amazing forts.
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A Visit to Casa Blanca

Constructed in 1521, the fortress mansion Casa Blanca was to be the home of Juan Ponce de Leon during his service as Spain's first governor of Puerto Rico. It was strategically built on the island's high ground with surrounding terraces that provide views of the area around the inlet and port, crucial for keeping a watchful eye. 

The interior of Casa Blanca is equally notable for its time, as you can see the comforts that may have been enjoyed in often less hospitable times. The very year that Ponce de Leon acquired this property he set sail for his infamous Florida voyage. Sadly, he would not return from that fateful journey. ​

There are multiple rooms on two floors that you can explore at your leisure. One serves as an exhibit on the archaeology of the site displaying the stages of construction that took place over many years as the home passed though different hands, finally ending up as property of the government. 

Update:
Just two blocks east of Casa Blanca stood this statue of Juan Ponce de Leon. Only days after I snapped this photo, the statue was toppled by an anti-colonial activist group. We have recently seen this type of destructive behavior sweeping around the globe placing both history and culture at risk. It is the duty of each of us to preserve the legacy of those who once came together from distant lands to create the diverse societies in which we currently live. 

Juan Ponce de Leon

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The Armada's Arsenal

Locally known as La Antiguo Arsenal de la Armada Espanola, this building was constructed in the 1800s to function as the port's new arsenal where naval ships would be armed for battle. It later served as the final evacuation point as Spanish rule over the island eventually came to an end. Today a nearby area of this same port is fittingly home to the Coast Guard.

Spanish Armada Arsenal

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The Spiritual Side of Puerto Rico

With its history of Spanish conquest, Puerto Rico is predominantly Catholic but with a mixture of Native Taino and African influence as well. All over town you will see churches, statues, and other structures of religious significance with information plaques helping to tell the stories of the of the island's history. 

Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud

The Capilla de San Cristo de la Salud is a chapel that's construction was finalized in 1780. It stands along the top of the city's southern wall overlooking the inlet. Local legend states that this location is famed with tales of its miraculous healing powers.

Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista

Just north of here is impressive cathedral entitled Basilica de San Juan Bautista. Multiple heavily adorned alters can be found inside this elaborate work of architecture. Juan Ponce de Leon is entombed here along with other notable historic figures, and you will also find the remains of Saint Pius (locally known as San Pio) encased in wax. 

Saint Pius served as the Bishop of Rome from 140 to his death in 154. He was executed for his faith by the Romans during the first century, making him one of the first martyrs of Christian persecution. His remains were donated to the church in 1862 by Pope Pius IX as an important relic of religious symbolism. 

Iglesia de San José

Continue up the path to see another beautiful religious display at La Iglesia de San Jose. Constuction began on this church in 1532 and inside you will be treated to a mixture of old and new perfectly fused into one magnificent place of worship. This church is known as the original resting place of Ponce de Leon before his remains were relocated to the nearby basilica. 

Parroquia San Francisco de Asis

If your soul is still yearning for more spiritual experiences, the Parroquia San Francisco de Asis may have what you are looking for with their display of religious artifacts. The church's original structure was constructed in 1756 by The Third order of Saint Francis and has since been expanded upon. Catching this place at the right time may allow you to venture down into the crypt where those founding members are entombed. 

Cementerio Santa María Magdalena de Pazzi

Dating back to 1863, the seaside cemetery of Santa Maria Magdelena de Pazzi ​is a must-see sight for those visiting San Juan. It symbolically overlooks the ocean as the dead seek to cross into the afterlife. This elaborate final resting place can be found at the northwestern end of town between the fort and the community of La Perla. 

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Things You May See Along the Way

From ancient-inspired artwork to monuments and modern masterpieces, Old San Juan is packed with countless sights to see. Totem Telurico can't be missed as it towers above Quinto Centenario Plaza. Near Puerto Rico's Capitol Building, you will find a variety of monuments such as the Walkway of Presidents and the Holocaust Memorial. And you can always unwind a bit in one of San Juan's many beautifully decorated parks as you make your way to these other fascinating locations. 

Plaza Colon - Raices Fountain - La Rogativa

In the heart of town, you will find Plaza Colon which is the location of an impressive tribute to famed explorer Christopher Columbus who was responsible for Spain's foothold in the Caribbean. A relaxing stroll along the Paseo de la Princesa will lead you to the Raices Fountain. Constructed in 1992, this gorgeous monument marks the 500th anniversary of Spain's arrival in The New World. The word "raices" translates to roots, as these sculptures aim to depict those who would provide the foundation for Puerto Rico's modern-day culture. Head on up above the city walls and you may find La Rogativa. This statue commemorates an event in which a women's religious group led a torch-lit procession to ward off the approaching British armada in 1797. 

The buildings of Old San Juan typically come in a variety of bright colors. You may even see a few decorated with some elaborate street art that seems to tell the stories of local heroes as well as the laborers who continue to make the community function. Look closely and you just may even find the famed "tiny house" of Old San Juan.

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The Eastern Side of Town

If you are up for a bit of an adventure, there is one more fortress to be visited. Fortin de San Geronimo del Boqueron is located on the eastern side of this island town at nearly a two mile stretch from the more central attractions. This tiny Spanish stronghold helped to defend against the forces of Sir Francis Drake in the 1595 Battle of San Juan as he attempted to invade from the city's eastern front.

Fortín de San Gerónimo del Boquerón

​This fort may be smaller than the others, but it houses a museum that provides an extensive amount of information on the development of San Juan. It was here that the caretaker educated me on the technique of which these cannons would fire at a degree that allowed the cannon ball to skip along the water to inflict a direct hit in the ship's hull. ​

Nearby is another small outpost where cannons could ward off approaching ships at the battery of Escambron. In this section of town there are a few large resort hotels and some notable parks. This area is also home to some of the most magnificent beaches around but be prepared for that walk or you could just grab a taxi from one of those convenient cab stands in the old town.

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Puerto Rican Food & Beverage

All over town you will find tasty treats and culinary delights waiting around each corner. Puerto Rico has some amazing foods with inspirations of both Spanish and Caribbean influence. I tried to take in as many of these experiences as possible but there are simply too many to enjoy them all. Here I will highlight a few of my favorites. 

One food you have to try while in Puerto Rico is the mofongo. My first meal on the island was the skirt steak mofongo at Raices restaurant - and it was excellent. For breakfast you will want to head over to Cafeteria Mallorca to try one of those famous mallorcas which is a breakfast sandwich made with a soft bread that melts in your mouth and covered in powdered sugar (I did this one twice). Over at Bari Handcrafted Pizza you can have some delicious empanadas in a building that is packed with history. After a long day of adventuring, be sure to stop in at Moreno to cool off with a pina colada topped with coconut shavings. And specials on mojitos and Medalla can be found almost anywhere.

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Cultures of the Past & Present

All throughout the island it is possible to find remnants of the native culture that once thrived. The Taino were the original natives and were a branch of the Arawak people that inhabited much of the Caribbean region. They have left their mark behind in artifacts such as this petroglyph. Much of their ancient rock art contains common themes of anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figures with large circular eyes. 

Though there were years of conquest, slavery, and warfare, a new culture eventually emerged. Today, Puerto Rico embraces its diverse heritage that was forged though a past often filled with much trial and turmoil. Many locals proudly boast of a mixed ethnicity of European, African, and that of the original Taino people who once ruled the island. In the end, it was this history of conflict that led to the creation of the modern-day Puerto Rico that has such a flavorful experience to be enjoyed.

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