From Montreal to Quebec City

A journey by train between two Canadian cities with a detailed comparison of their cultural and architectural differences   . . . 

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A Comparison of Two Canadian Cities

​Founded in 1642, Montreal is the largest city in Quebec, and the second largest in all of Canada. It was here that I would begin my journey with two full days to explore the sights and history. I would then be embarking upon a scenic train ride to the nearby French- speaking capital of Quebec City. 

After a long series of delayed flights, I was finally exiting YUL airport. I had already lost a few hours of my first day, so I was in no mood to waste any more time. I Immediately took the first bus that I could find downtown, arriving at my hotel just before dark. 

​My place of residence for the next two nights was the Abri du Voyageur. This cozy place is a cross between a hotel and a hostel. Each guest has a private room with a sink, but the bathrooms are shared. Don't be alarmed by the fact that it is located in the old red light district above an adult toy store, it is actually a pretty decent place and a very affordable option for those just passing through.

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I immediately hit the town that evening to try the ultimate Canadian dish - Poutine. For those who do not know, it is basically fries with cheese curds and gravy. It goes great with a couple pints of beer, as I soon learned at Ye Olde Orchard Pub. While I am on the subject of food, I will also give a shout out to Eggspectation for the next morning's amazing breakfast of egg wrapped in (yep, you guessed it) Canadian bacon. 

Poutine

Eggspectation

While in town you may want to plan a visit to The Museum of Fine Arts or the nearby Mount Royal Park. If you thoroughly explore Montreal, you will surely encounter "the underground". It is a large subterranean area spanning most of the downtown. Here you will find many shops connected by metro stops. It is basically a big underground mall in which you could seriously spend all day long getting lost. Montreal is an interesting town full of museums, parks, and nightlife. You will even find plenty of activities to keep the younger ones occupied. I didn't have as much time as I would have liked, so I had to squeeze in a select few attractions. 

​For my anthropology and archaeology friends, Pointe-a-Calliere is a must see. This is the city's historical museum, located down by the old port area on the St. Lawrence river. One of the things that I found most interesting about this attraction is that you enter through one building, descend underground to view the foundations upon which the old town was built, then re-emerge in another building across the street to view even more exhibits. I must admit, the pathway was a bit confusing, but that only added to the excitement.

Pointe-a-Calliere

One thing you will immediately notice about Montreal is the amazing architecture. As far as churches go, the most notable in town is the Notre Dame Basilica de Montreal (1829). Not far away is the St. James United Church (1889) which offers another fine example of the Gothic Revival style of architecture found throughout Quebec.  

Notre Dame Basilica de Montreal

St. James United Church

Aside from the gothic cathedrals and other European inspired architecture, Montreal is also packed with some amazing street art. Be sure to take a look around each corner and even venture down some of the backstreets or you may just miss something impressive. 

​Just so you are linguistically prepared, about half of Montreal speaks French. The interesting part is that this half seems to be geographical in nature. Saint Laurent Boulevard divides the city down the middle. The west side tends to speak more English, with French being the dominant language to the east. You can seriously notice this change in languages by drinking a beer in one bar and crossing the street to the next. 

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Going a Little Further French … Quebec City

After exploring Montreal, the time had come to move on toward Quebec City. This is the capital of the Canadian province of Quebec, but was founded as a French settlement in 1608 by explorer Samuel de Champlain. Quebec City is completely different compared to other parts of Canada. Here you will experience an authentic European vibe to match the exquisite architecture. Upon arrival you will notice a dramatic increase in the number of French speaking people. The proper term for this French-Canadian culture is Quebecoise. While you will find a lot of these francophones in Montreal, Quebec City is made up almost entirely of French speaking people, so be prepared.  

It was around 10 am when I boarded my train at Gare Centrale and headed east. The three hour train ride cost about 40 dollars, and was actually a pretty pleasant experience due to the large reclining seats. Upon my arrival, I was surprised at the beauty of Gare du Palais Train Station. This is the very first example of the type of architecture that awaits. After stepping out of the station, I made my way up the steep hill where I would be staying at Hosteling International. Basic bunk beds may not be your style, but at only nineteen dollars a night, it can't be beat. As a bonus, they do have a nice common area and bar in the basement. 

Without a doubt, one of the most recognizable buildings in Quebec City is the mighty Chateau Frontenac. This massive hotel dates back to the late 1800's, and was constructed by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. It also serves as the centerpiece of the historic part of town, which is divided in two parts, the upper and lower. There are stairways throughout the area to get you where you are going, but if you don't feel up to the climb, you may want to take the funicular. Both the upper and the lower parts are equally worth exploring. While the views from Dufferin Terrace are spectacular, you shouldn't overlook the pubs, shops, and museums down below. 

Old Town Quebec is situated within some very photogenic and heavily fortified stone walls. At night, parts of town become more illuminated and even more lively. There are a multitude of places to eat, drink, and be social scattered throughout this area. Pub St-Patrick and Bistrot Pape Georges are two that I really enjoyed. Unfortunately, I had a little too much fun and felt it the next morning. 

Old Town Walls

Bistrot Pape Georges

While exploring the town, don't overlook the many nooks and crannies. There is a multitude of memorials and other works of art hidden around each corner. From elaborate murals to historical monuments, there something new to be noticed on each visit.  This bronze statue, "L’Homme Rivière (The Riverman) by artists Lucienne Cornet and Catherine Sylvain, seems to pay homage to the logging industry that helped to build Quebec's early economy. 

The Riverman

Quebec has many historic points of interest including The Plains of Abraham Museum and La Citadelle de Québec. And for my anthropology and archaeology friends, The Museum of Civilization may have just what you're looking for. It was here that I enjoyed a range of exhibits from the settlement of the area to displays of modern culture. 

If you venture on a little further back toward the train station, you will find The Old Port area. Not only was there a good view of the boats, but the market was bustling with activity. Inside this lively atmosphere was a multitude of vendors offering goods ranging from produce to freshly caught fish. I love visiting markets anywhere I go, and this one is definitely worth a walkthrough. 

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Montmorency Falls

A great side trip from Quebec City is Montmorency Falls. Located just a few miles outside of town, this natural wonder is taller than Niagara and features a suspension bridge and hiking trail with great views of the surrounding area. The best way to get there is to take the bus. To do so, you will need to purchase a transit pass at the train station. Just outside of the station there is a bus stop that will transport you to the falls with a few stops in between. The bus will drop you off at the top of the falls where you can walk across the bridge then down a large flight of stairs to the base. Once you have had this amazing photo opportunity, you can ride the cable car back up the hill to the top where you started. Following this path is the best way to take in the view from every angle. 

Canada is a great destination that seems to be often overlooked. It's northern climate makes for a great summer getaway. There is so much more to see and do throughout this region and across the country. By adding Toronto and Ottawa to your itinerary, you could easily extend this into a two week adventure by train. I highly recommend you consider my neighbor to the north the next time wanderlust calls.