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A guide to the archaeology and culture of the Mexican state of Quintana Roo and surrounding locations along the Yucatan Peninsula . . .
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As a child, I had often dreamt of ancient ruins and the adventurous lifestyle of early explorers. Like many, I had especially wanted to visit the Mayan ruins of the Yucatan peninsula. After much research into the area, I got my passport and set off on what would be a life changing experience.
Adventuring throughout Quintana Roo and YucatanIt was while browsing around on Expedia, that Hostal Mayapan caught my eye. The price and location were excellent, as this hostel is located in the hotel zone near the restaurants and nightlife. The building was an abandoned shopping mall that has now been converted into very affordable lodging that looks like a scene from some post-apocalyptic B movie (in a good kinda way), complete with rooms that resemble jail cells. All kidding aside, this hostel is actually pretty cool. The location is good, and at only 17 usd per night, it's a real bargain. Rumor has it that somewhere inside is a bar, but I never ventured far enough into the depths of the unknown to find it. This two story building really is huge - but sorry, the escalators didn't work. Outside on the street you will encounter many tour companies offering deals to various sites. This is extremely helpful for those not crazy about driving in foreign countries. Many of these are full day trips with lunch included. Be sure you shop around, because these businesses are in heavy competition with one another. Viaje a Chichén Itzá
My first full day in Mexico I took off on a package tour that featured Chichén Itzá. While Cancun is located in Quintana Roo, this adventure would be taking me on a road trip into the neighboring Mexican state of Yucatan. This was a fairly large bus group of around 20 people or so. We had a nice lunch along the way, and stopped at a visitor center that offered the chance to participate in an ancient Mayan ritual. During this event, participants stood in a circle with an incense burning priest in the middle. An obsidian figurine was passed around from person to person collecting negative energies. The figurine was then washed revealing a change in color.
One of the largest cities of the Maya, Chichén Itzá is truly an awe-inspiring sight to behold. The giant pyramid, El Castillo (also known as the Temple of Kukulcan), is astrologically aligned to function as a calendar that perfectly depicts the four seasons. Each of the four sides has 91 steps equaling a total of 364. When figuring in the platform at the apex, this clearly represents the 365 day year. This convinces me that the builders were aware of the need for a leap year.
The room atop provided a place where the priest could address the masses with the assistance of some amazing acoustics. When standing at the base, if you clap your hands together you will receive a delayed echo.
The Maya had their very own sporting event that was played out on a ballcourt. Similar to basketball, this game consisted of two teams with the objective of putting a rubber ball through the hoop. It is said that there were religious connections to this game, with the contestants being candidates for human sacrifice. To the players this was considered the greatest of honors.
A Quick Stop in Valladolid
After visiting the mighty Pre-Columbian structures at Chichen Itza, we visited the town of Valladolid. This colonial town was founded in 1543 and named after the capital of Spain at that time. The building you see here is the Iglesia de San Servacio. Originally constructed in 1545 by Francisco Hernandez, this Catholic church was demolished after having been desecrated during a political upheaval in 1703. It was rebuilt in 1706 with the alter being repositioned, as blood had been spilt on the original. It was here at the central park across the street that I had the chance to try some amazing coconut ice cream from a street vendor. Shortly after we were taking a dip in the nearby Cenote Suytun before returning to Cancun.
For those of you unfamiliar with this terminology, cenotes are underground lakes which are very common on the Yucatan Peninsula. These natural features are typically created by sink holes, and are fed by underground streams. The cool and refreshing water in this one was illuminated with a natural skylight creating a beautiful environment. Unfortunately, my camera didn't do so well in that light. I recommend you enjoy a swim in at least one while visiting.
Cobá vs Tulum
My second adventure was a combo tour of Cobá and Tulum. This tour consisted of about twelve people comfortably packed in a large passenger van. On this one, visitors are treated to different variations of ancient Mayan architecture, with a tasty buffet style lunch in a small village on the banks of a nearby lagoon.
Our first stop was Cobá. This ancient settlement dates back to over 1500 years ago. There are several structures in the area, but the most famous is the Ixmoja pyramid. This is one of the only local sites where you are still allowed to climb to the top, and I recommend that you do so because the view is amazing.
After lunch we were headed east to the coastal ruins of Tulum. Evidence of settlement on this site dates to a similar timeframe as found in Cobá, but large scale construction did not begin until the Postclassical Period around 1200 AD. The site was later abandoned during the 16th century after European contact.
Partially surrounded by a set of impressive city walls, Tulum is a much more beautiful example of Mesoamerican architecture - but sorry, no touching here.
Bonus Tip: If you follow the path past El Castillo and down the hill, you will come to Playita Tortuga (Turtle Beach). An Island Escape
Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) was just a short ferry ride away, so I decided to take a relaxing free day all to myself. I cannot express how pleasantly different this island is from the hustle of Cancun. I had gotten an early start, so breakfast was in order. After roaming the streets for a bit, I stumbled into a nice little restaurant and enjoyed a plate of huevos rancheros.
After breakfast, I headed up to Playa Norte (north beach). This is one of the best beaches that I have ever visited, and it did not seem to suffer from the same crowds as nearby Cancun. This is the kind of environment where you can sip drinks in a swing at a tiki bar or relax in the sun all alone.
After a long day of swimming and drinking, it was time for some lunch. The only hard part is deciding where and what to eat. As I sat enjoying my food and one final beer, I mused at the traffic of these tropical streets. It consisted of almost entirely golf carts and scooters, adding even more to the already relaxing vibe.
If you are looking for an archaeological experience, it is rumored that there are a few ruins located at the southern end of the island. This includes ancient statues of Ixchel, the deity that many priestesses represented. It is said that the island got its name from once being inhabited by those women. To get there you will want to hail a ride on one of those golf carts that I mentioned.
There are many more attractions beyond the areas that I have highlighted. When you begin to explore this island, you will notice that it is far larger than one would expect. Sadly, I did not have time to venture down as far as Punta Sur. All too soon it was time for my ferry back to the chaos of Cancun. If you wish to spend more time in this island paradise (and I highly recommend it), there are plenty of lodging options available ranging from an affordable bunk in one of the local hostels to splurging at a large resort-like hotel. Back to the Mainland
I will admit that Cancun is a little too touristy for my tastes. Many of the restaurants are of the same chains you will find in the states. The main drag of the Hotel Zone is full of souvenir shops and street hustlers. The pushy sales pitches can be very annoying, and you may even experience a bit of culture shock when you hear what some of these people are selling. I would advise you to stay away from any questionable activities. If you want a taste of real Mexico, you have to do as I did and venture out into the surrounding areas.
Although I did not have time during my visit, many prefer to stay just a bit further south in the nearby town of Playa del Carmen. This is another touristy area that is quickly gaining in popularity. If you are looking to indulge in trendy nightlife, while basing yourself out of a much nicer hostel or cozy boutique hotel, then this is the place you are looking for. From here there is also a ferry that runs directly across to the island of Cozumel, where you will have the opportunity to check out the ruins of San Gervasio.
Don't miss it!
Bonus:
If you would like to hear an anecdotal account of my adventure in Mexico, you can do so by reading one of my my epic tales, or should I say … Misadventures.
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