An Adventurer's Guide to Utah

Utah is home to an impressive array of endlessly diverse scenery. On a very limited timeframe, I would be exploring as much of its landscape and history as possible   . . . 

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A One Week Road Trip through The Beehive State

​​If you are like me, and arrive by plane, you will most likely be flying into SLC airport. Salt Lake City may have been my point of entry, but I wouldn't be exploring the capital until the end. My Main focus while visiting Utah was to search for Native American petroglyphs (which you can read all about here), so I started by heading east.

Not so fast!
We were in the midst of "The Great Rental Car Crisis of 2021". I stood in line at the Thrifty kiosk for about an hour and a half only to be told there were no cars left. None for me or the twenty or so others in line behind me. I was desperate, so I quickly headed next door to Enterprise and snagged one of the few vehicles left - a minivan at the additional cost of $1100 for the week. So there we would be, just me and my Chrysler Voyager heading off toward those desert highways.

Eastward to Vernal

This 170 mile drive takes about three hours. On the way you will be passing through the Uintah and Ouray Reservation. In this area you will also be driving past the infamous Skinwalker Ranch​, which is the site of countless reports of alien abductions, animal mutilations, and native tales of shapeshifting shaman. Enough of that … let's get moving!​

Why Vernal? This area contains a large concentration of that ancient native artwork that I previously mentioned. This tiny town is also dinosaur central. You will see many references to this sort of reptoid-paleontology all over town, and I highly recommend a visit to the Utah Fieldhouse of Natural History to help satisfy those dino desires. 

Be sure to stop by the nearby Uintah County Heritage Museum to be properly educated on the human aspect of the area as well. You can easily spend an entire day enjoying these impressive museums while also enjoying some of the wonderful dining options this small town has to offer. ​

East of Vernal, and just north of the tiny town of Jensen you will find Dinosaur National Monument. It is definitely worth the extra drive out here to check out this site.  From the visitor center, you can take a trolley ride to the Quarry Exhibit Hall to see a vast array of dino bones in situ. There is also a hiking trail that spans around the property displaying a variety of other fossils. 

Moab & Surrounding Areas

About 225 miles and 4 hours will get you to Moab. This took me a tad bit longer, as I decided to make a quick stop at Thompson Springs to check out another petroglyph site near the ruins of an old mining town. Finally, late in the evening I was rolling into Moab with an empty stomach and a head still full of wanderlust. I would be spending two nights here to give myself a full day of exploration in the area. Let's get started! ​

The town of Moab is like an oasis of bars and restaurants in the middle of an otherwise inhospitable desert. The best part about Moab is its proximity to Arches National Park. Base yourself here, and you will have the chance to explore Canyonlands National Park as well. I will soon be posting another article offering a more detailed look at the amazing geology of these parks. 

Arches

Canyonlands

But don't stop with just those two national parks. Dead Horse Point State Park is actually on the way to Canyonlands. This is a great place to watch the sunrise before a long day of adventuring. If you arrive before the guard shack opens, you can leave your admission fee in the box. I recommend hitting these two parks back- to-back to maximize your time. 

Dead Horse Point State Park

Keep in mind these locations are a good 40 minutes outside of town, so be sure to bring some water and a bite to eat. And don't forget, these parks are popular. It is always important to get an early start. If the line is to long (or temporarily closed), simply head to another location then come back and try again later. ​

​Important Tip:
​If you you are planning on visiting multiple national parks, it will save lots of money to invest in an America the Beautiful National Parks Pass. State parks are not included, but many are still worth the entrance fee.

Moab Sunset

I couldn't resist throwing in this sunset shot taken at The Lions Park in Moab. The desert can be absolutely amazing around dusk and dawn. Unfortunately, my time in this majestic town was drawing to a close. In the early hours of the morning, I would be moving on. 

Back on the Road

Leaving Moab, it was time to make my way back across the state, this time to the southwest corner. Once again, I got up super early to avoid wasting any time. Along the way you will find many other opportunities for exploring the mysticism of the desert. Of you take Highway 24, you will pass by Goblin Valley State Park.  This place gets its name from the thousands of stone structures that seem to resemble creatures of myth. 

Valley of the Goblins

A word of caution, this can be a very harsh environment. Summer temperatures can easily reach over 100 degrees. ​ Sunscreen and plenty of water an an absolute must, as there is very little shade to be found in this otherworldly landscape. Despite the intense dry heat, this can be a very enjoyable place to explore. 

Capitol Reef & Fruita Area

As I continued my clockwise journey, I passed through Capitol Reef National Park. This area is home to many historic sites such as the Fruita Schoolhouse which operated from 1892 to 1941. There are also remains of a few of the homesteads that once helped to seed this area. One of such is the Behunin Cabin, where the Mormon pioneer and his wife originally settled before relocating to a more suitable spot on up the road. Together they had thirteen children. 

Fruita Schoolhouse

Behunin Cabin

Make a left at he visitor center, and you will have the opportunity to tour the scenic drive that will take you on your way to even more historic locations. The park also has a campground, along with plenty of hiking trails to keep you occupied. As you can see, the colors really begin to pop here. It is the Fremont River that provides fertile ground to an otherwise harsh environment. 

Capitol Reef National Park

I had originally wanted to head up to Highway 89 and take that path down to Bryce in order to pass by Butch Cassidy's childhood home, but time was running short. I opted for the quicker route of 62 to 22 for a surprisingly scenic drive. This was a very pleasant option, but if you have more time, you can also take State Road 12 through Escalante. Along my path of choice, the land would begin to once again shift into a more mountainous pine forest. Two and a half hours later, I was arriving at my next destination. 

Bryce Canyon 

Bryce Canyon National Park offers multiple viewpoints of its amazing environment - each with its own perspective of the canyon below. You can drive to these different vantage points or simply let The Rim Trail guide you along this majestic sight. It was here near Sunrise Point that I photographed this lone pine tree clinging desperately to the edge of the cliff. 

As you can see, this section of canyon landscape is also mixed with a tad bit more greenery compared to some of the more northern locations. The contrast of colors is amazing in the Bryce area, providing for some amazing photo opportunities. The canyon itself seems to offer an endless amount of hiking that I will eventually return to explore. 

I recommend stopping in at the visitor center to pick up a map of the area. While at it, get that passport stamped and pick up a souvenir and of course more water. The small town also offers a few shopping opportunities as well as a variety of lodging options. Had I known that you can stay in a teepee at a nearby campground, that is exactly what I would have done. ​

In and Around Zion 

I approached Zion National Park through the east entrance, completely unprepared for what was ahead. The curvy (and narrow) two lane Mount Carmel Tunnel is just over a mile long. At the end it dumps you out down the mountainside for a series of switchbacks worthy of any amusement park coaster. If I had known the road was like this, I would have had my GoPro set up for some amazing dashcam footage. 

Zion National Park

Getting to the popular hiking spots of Zion can be a bit tricky. No private vehicles are allowed up one of the main scenic drives - a shuttle ticket is required for this trip. Here is the complicated part. You cannot by a ticket on site. They must be purchased online the night before. Don't let this discourage you; there are many other hiking trails that do not require shuttling up the drive. I chose to hike The Watchman Trail, which begins at the visitor center and takes you to the best viewpoint of this mighty peak. 

When visiting Zion National Park, most people stay in the nearby town Springdale. This is a very popular tourist spot, so book early and be prepared to pay a large hotel fee. I opted to stay a few more miles west in the town of Hurricane. Just be sure to get to the park early to secure a parking place at the visitor center. 

The Drive Back 

The drive from the southwest quadrant of the state may seem a bit boring, but there are many attractions that can be taken in to break up the monotony. Detours off of that long stretch of Interstate 15 can lead you to everything from waterfall adventures to ghost towns. 

Heading west from Hurricane, I stopped in at St. George for a bite to eat and the chance to check out Red Hills Desert Garden. This desert wonderland is located at Pioneer Park in The Red Cliffs National Conservation Area. These free attractions are a great way to spend a couple of hours. If you feel like doing some off-roading, there are petroglyphs and dinosaur tracks in the area as well. 

Red Hills Desert Garden

After continuing north, a turn on Highway 56 in Cedar City will take you to the Old Iron Town Historic Site. Established in 1868, this abandoned settlement was once a mining town which was also home to about 90 people. The conical stone structure is a charcoal kiln. Inside, wood was smoldered into coal to later be used as fuel for iron production. 

Old Iron Town Ruins

Salt Lake City

I finally rolled back into Salt Lake City completely exhausted after having put 1500 miles on the rental van. The Plaza Hotel at Temple Square provided a pleasant stay as I would get one last bit of rest before the flight home. But enough about that, let's talk about the town. 

European settlement of this area dates back to the 1820's, but the region was originally inhabited by the Native Shoshone and Paiute people. ​As you probably already know, this is the capital city of Utah. It is currently home to over 200,000 people, with a thriving metropolitan area that has an interesting history unique to this part of the country. 

Osmyn Deuel, along with his wife Mary, and his brother Amos settled in this 15x20 cabin in 1847. As a Mormon pioneer, Osmyn was also a farmer and the town blacksmith. The Deuel family eventually left, and the cabin was temporarily repurposed as an armory for the local militia. It was soon after purchased by another member of The Church of Latter- Day Saints and move to another location. In 1912 The Desert Museum acquired the cabin and moved it to its current home at Temple Square. 

Deuel Cabin

One of the main locations I wanted to check out in this town was The Natural History Museum of Utah. Unfortunately, a reservation was needed and no more were available. I then decided to check out the attraction next door, which turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.

Red Butte Gardens

Red Butte Gardens is an amazing sight to behold. This plant lover's paradise spans 21 impressive acres full of fragrantly colorful pathways to explore. Different areas treat the visitor to a variety of plant life in a very educational manner with features like the medicinal garden. Even with an admission fee of $14, I highly recommend it!  

It was getting late in the day, so I cleaned up the rental van one last time and finished off the evening sampling a few of the local brews. All the while, I was reminiscing on the adventures I had managed to cram into one week of sightseeing. Utah had been a wonderful experience, and everyone needs to see firsthand the amazingly diverse landscapes found within the "The Beehive State". 

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Don't forget to also check out my
​ 2021 Petroglyph Hunt.