Exploring Southern Germany by Train

A guide to travelling southern Germany by train with visits to Munich, Stuttgart, Heidelberg, and Nuremberg including a detailed history of the region   . . . 

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​The convenience of the European rail system makes it easy to visit multiple locations in a small amount of time. This adventure was all about making a loop through the southern half of Germany, taking the trains between cities, and seeing as much as I could within a short amount of time. 

A Circle through Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg

​I flew into Munich, but would not be staying there until the end of my trip. It was still morning, so I roamed around a bit searching for my first tastes of German culture. After marveling at all the wonderful goods available at the central station, I finally boarded my train bound for Stuttgart, which would place me arriving there around check in time.

Browse Train Tickets Here

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Stuttgart

The reason I chose Stuttgart as my first stop was to visit a cousin who had been stationed there for military service. Here I would have my own personal tour guide to show me around. As it turns out, Stuttgart is actually a pretty cool town. It may not receive the amount of tourism as other locations, but has an enormous amount of museums and an impressive variety of restaurants.

Neues Schloss (New Castle) Stuttgart

For the first part of my journey, I stayed at the Novum Hotel Rieker (around 50 usd per night). Its close proximity to the train station is perfect for those that want to make day trips exploring the surrounding area. The hotel is small with cozy rooms, but suited my needs perfectly. I was especially pleased to find a beer and wine vending machine in the lobby. ​

Novum Hotel Reiker

The Linden Ethnographic Museum and the History Museum Württemberg were first on my list of sites, but others may be more interested in the various car museums. Porsche and Mercedes are based in this town, so car lovers definitely will not want to miss those. Like I said before, the food options here are absolutely amazing. I can definitely recommend Brauhaus Schonbuch and Carls Brauhaus (I ate there twice). ​

Linden Ethnographic Museum

Brauhaus Schonbuch

The entire downtown area of Stuttgart is full of interesting statues to admire. Schillerplatz hosts a memorial to the philosopher and poet for which it is named, while the mounted Duke Eberhard guards the courtyard of the Old Castle Museum. Yet another equestrian statue can be found nearby, as Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm seems to ride freely through Karlsplatz. 

Statues of Stuttgart

As I mentioned earlier, there are many great day trips from Stuttgart. The nearby town of Tubingen had been on my list, but I was on a very tight schedule. If you plan on being in Stuttgart for an extended amount of time, you can easily cross the borders into Strasbourg, France and ​Zürich, Switzerland. And for you nature enthusiasts, The black Forest is just outside of town.

If you have a fear of driving in other countries, no worries. Germany's train system provides a very convenient mode of transportation for those looking to explore. I found it to also be very affordable, ranging between 20 to 30 euros between major cities, depending on the time and day. You can even find tickets cheaper by booking in advance (as low as 9 euros), or you may save money by purchasing a rail pass if you plan on an extended visit with a multitude of destinations.  

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Heidelberg

Heidelberger Marktplatz

The next city that I visited was Heidelberg, which can be an easy day trip from Stuttgart. I recommend making your way to the Heidelberger Marktplatz (market place) where you will enjoy a multitude of pubs, restaurants, and hotels. It is a fairly long walk to this end of town from the train station, but there is a lite rail system that runs along the way.

​Heidelberg Castle is situated on a large hill overlooking the town. Going on foot is a bit of a task, but the climb to the top is well worth it. There is a trail south of the marktplatz that will lead you up a scenic winding stairway. It wasn't until later that I realized there is a funicular to provide a bit of assistance to those looking to save their energy. Once you reach the top, you will step through the Elisabethentor gate and be transported back in time. This impressive archway was constructed by Frederick V aka "The Winter King" to honor his wife Elizabeth. 

​The exact date of this castle's construction is unknown, but its existence was first documented in the early 1200s. This impressive fortified structure has withstood multiple wars, including The Thirty Years War, and has the battle scars to prove it. French engraver Charles de Graimberg later took up residence, and became somewhat of a curator of its grounds and contents. 

Once inside the castle grounds there are certain areas open to exploration. My first stop was the apothecary museum. Here you will be treated to the history of pharmaceuticals, while enjoying many interesting displays of medieval medicine that are sure to satisfy your inner scientist. There is also a gift shop where you can purchase souvenirs including herbal liqueurs of an ancient recipe. 

Apothecary Museum

​Search hard enough and you just may find the castle's very own winery where you will have the chance to relax and quench your thirst after a long day of adventuring. In the photos below you will see some impressive wine casks including The Great Heidelberg Tun. This enormous barrel holds over 200,000 liters. Not only can you indulge in the castle's very own wine, but there is also a restaurant onsite for those who are painfully famished from the uphill climb. 

Heidelberg Wine Cellar

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Nuremberg

Frauentor: Entrance to The Old Town

As the pictures may reveal, March can be a bitter cold time for Germany. The old town of Nuremberg is great for explorers and history buffs. As you exit the train station, you will immediately be greeted by the city  gates. These massive walls now stretching over five kilometers, were built between the 12th and 16th centuries. Once the other side, you will feel as if you have been transported back in time. 

Nuremberg Castle

​Wander your way far enough north and you will come to the castle, which serves as a museum filled with medieval weaponry. Original construction of Nuremberg Castle began in 1027 under the direction of The Holy Roman Empire, with the updated version completed around 1254.The structure that you see now is mostly original, but went through heavy restoration after the WWII bombings.

Restaurant Nassauer Keller

One of my favorite dining experiences in Germany was at  Restaurant Nassauer Keller. A steep stairway leads you beneath the street down into a dungeon-like realm complete with suits of armor. ​Watch your step, especially on your way up after a few lagers.

There seems to be so much to see and do within the stone walls of the old town that I never ventured any further into the rest of the city. The historic vibe of this section of Nuremburg makes it the kind of place you could easily enjoy getting lost in for days. Unfortunately, with too little time and so much to do, I would soon be catching a train back to where my journey began. 

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Munich

Arriving back in the Bavarian capital of Munich, I would only have a couple of days left to finish taking in the many sights and tastes that Germany has to offer. Many may know this historic town as the home of Oktoberfest, the legendary beer festival that normally runs from mid September to mid October. Fortunately, this was the off season, so I would not have to navigate the enormous crowds that the autumn months would bring.

Karlsplatz (Stachus)

New Town Hall

To top off this adventure, I was pleased to stay at the Vi Vadi Hotel (around 60 usd per night). It offers very spacious rooms complete with a kitchen, and is centrally located just north of the main train station. Walking eastward from the station, you will enter the old town through the Karlsplatz archway. Just a bit further is Marienplatz. This is the town center where you find some amazing architecture sprinkled with an assortment of those epic beer halls. 

An Abundance of Museums

Konigsplatz

Just north of the town center, you will find Konigsplatz (King's Square). This area is home to many of the museums  in Munich. I didn't have time to make it through them all, but here are a few that you may enjoy.

• The Paleontological Museum
• The Egyptian Museum
• Glyptothek (history museum) 
• Staatliche Antikensammlungen (neoclassical) 
• Lenbachhaus (19th & 20th century art 
  
• ​​. . . and many more

A Walk Through History

While in Munich, I decided to take a history walking tour. This tour meets in the morning at its office on the north side of the train station where other similar activities can also be booked. I highly recommend this as a way to learn your way around. It is amazing how much one would pass by without a local guide educating you along the way. 

Feldherrnhalle

Dodger's Alley

I found the area around Odeosplatz to be one of the more interesting historic locations. The Feldherrnhalle is a monument to the Bavarian army, which is specifically dedicated to their leaders in The Thirty Years War and Napoleonic Wars. The small street around back is referred to as "Dodgers Alley". This is the pathway people once took to avoid saluting at the front of the building during the Nazi reign. ​

​Just a couple of blocks to the north-west of here is The Monument to the Victims of National Socialism. Installed in 1985, this memorial houses a caged eternal flame to honor those lost during the Holocaust. A nearby inscription reads: "Den Opfern der Nationalsozialistischen Gewaltherrschaft", which translates to: To the Victims of the National Socialist Dictatorship. 

Monuments like this are especially easy to miss without the help of an experienced local guide, so I definitely recommend booking one of these historic walking tours. 

Food & Beverage!

​Just south of the main train station is a quirky (and slightly seedy) neighborhood where you will find Café Schiller. This bar is somewhat of a sports pub dedicated to European football (soccer). Their beer and food are very reasonably priced, and you must try the curry wurst!

Café Schiller

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​Further down south near the Sendlinger Tor metro station, you will find Andy's Krablergarten. This restaurant serves the best schnitzel that I have ever eaten. The picture doesn't quite do it justice, but if it helps to put things into perspective, the beer in the background was enormous.

Andy's Krablergarten

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One thing I found to be convenient while traveling Germany by train, was that many of the train stations have lockers where you can store your belongings while out on the town. Some even have showers you can use to freshen up. This is especially helpful if you are passing through without a place to stay.

This brief outline only offers a glimpse of my quick trip through southern Germany. There is so much to see and do. You will need at least two weeks to take it all in. 
Plan on :
2 to 3 full days in Stuttgart
2 full days in Heidelberg
2 to 3 full days in Nuremberg
3 to 4 days in Munich
... and add extra days for other side trips and smaller towns in between.

In the end, my German adventure was everything I had hoped. While I had an amazing time sightseeing and enjoying the culture, I did have another motive. At the time I was an anthropology student, and I decided to take this as an opportunity to work on a project for class. You can read more about this research in one of my epic tales involving Ethnographic Fieldwork. 

The video below will take you on an adventure
through a neighboring country.

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