Exploring the Mayan Ruins of Belize

You will sometimes hear Belize referred to as "The Mayan Jewel". Let's take a further look into this wondrous landscape to find out why   . . . 

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Adventures in Archaeology, Rain or Shine!

​It was during a five day trip to Belize that I had the opportunity to explore some of the ancient history of the Mayan civilization. Though it was the rainy season, I had a scorching hot day at Xunantunich followed by a torrential down pour at Altun Ha.
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​Here is what happened: 

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Xunantunich

The Xunantunich Archaeological Site is about a two hour drive southwest of Belize City. Along the way we passed through the new Capital of Belmopan and the twin cities Santa Elena and San Ignacio before finally reaching San Jose Succotz. Here crossed the Mopan River by the use of a hand-cranked ferry. After that it was about another mile to the site. 

Hand-Cranked Ferry

Upon arrival the guide took us over to the visitor center to show us the map of the area. We were now on foot headed up the hill when he stopped to show us the structure where a variety of animal bones had been recovered by archaeologists. This is evidence that the area was once used for food preparation, and more importantly provides clues into the diet of these people. Up the hill and around the corner, we would be getting our first glimpse of the plaza area with views of some of the most picturesque ruins imaginable. ​

Getting Familiar with the Layout

The first structure to the right is said to have served as a residence building. Straight ahead was a small pyramid shape that was once a tomb. A nearby stone marks the death of an important woman that once acted as one of the only female leaders in the region. The word Xunantanich loosely translates to "Lady of the Stone". It is said that early hunters discovered these ruins along with the ghost of a woman who haunted them. Catholic Priests were eventually brought in to ward off spirits, and the mysterious lady seems to have since vanished. 

Tomb at Xunantunich

After a brief lesson on the background of the site, it was now time to take on the main temple bearing the title El Castillo. We ascended the steps straight up the middle to the central platform. From here we would go around the corner to have a look at a strip of panels featuring symbols and faces that tell the tales of Mayan lore. 

El Castillo side view

After a short rest we proceeded up the stairs to the upper levels. From the very top you not only get a birds eye view of the site, but you can actually see westward across the border into the neighboring country of Guatemala. Be very careful on your way down. You will have to come close to the edge in some areas. 

View into Guatemala

This impressive Mayan city reached its peak of development sometime after 600 AD. At this time it is speculated that it was capable of sustaining around 10,000 inhabitants. Archaeological evidence suggests that a series of natural disasters could have been the cause of its decline and eventual abandonment sometime around 750 AD, as earthquake damage is visible in many of these stone monuments. 

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Altun Ha

It was an overcast morning with more clouds moving in swiftly. The guide drove us about 45 minutes along the northern bound highways trying to beat the rain. And of course as soon as we got out of the car, we had to make a run for the shelter of the visitor center. Luckily, I had a poncho in my pack. For those less fortunate, there were vendors on site selling rain gear and umbrellas. 

Interesting Fact:
It is the image of El Castillo at Altun Ha
​that can be found on the label for Belize's national beer - Belikin.

After waiting a few minutes, the rain began to let up and we proceeded into the Altun Ha Archaeological site. We immediately climbed the temple to our right to get an initial vantage point of the ruins. ​I could not help but notice that there seem to be areas that have yet to be fully excavated. That is a project I would love to take part in at some point.

The name Altun Ha comes from the Yucatec Mayan language and translates to something along the lines of "Rock Pond of Water" or "Rock Stone Pond". Basically it could be thought of as a cistern which would have been important to the foundation of a growing population and productive city center.

Climbing Altun Ha

After a bit of history, it was now time to take on el Castillo. ​This climb was a bit easier than the one I had experienced on the previous day, but the rain coated stones can create a very slippery surface. Just use the hand rail and take your time. The view from the top is pretty amazing. Just watch the edge, especially in wet conditions. After taking it all in for a few minutes, we eventually descended down another set of steps in the back which seems to create a one-way flow of traffic. 

View from the top

Covering about 5 square mikes, Altun Ha is a product of the Classic Period beginning around 200 AD. That was when the bulk of construction most likely took place. Evidence of inhabitants in the area actually dates back much further into the Pre Classic Period all the way to 1,000 BC. At its peak this city may have supported a population of just under 10,000. Decline and abandonment seem to have occurred in the Post Classic Period sometime between 900 and 1200 AD. 

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On my third day I had a tour scheduled for another nearby Mayan archaeological site. Lamanai has to be reached by boat, so weather can be a bit of an issue for that one. Unfortunately, the rain was severe and floods were being experienced all over the area causing the tour to be cancelled.
​At least now I have an excuse to return one day.

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Adventure like these can be booked on
​Expedia

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Click this photo to explore more of Belize with me!

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